Wash your dog at home properly- The no BS Guide

Let’s Cut Through the Garbage

Most of the dog-washing advice online was clearly written by someone who’s never seen a dirty Shepherd—or brushed dried turd out of a Cavoodle’s bum hair.

It’s either aimed at chihuahua-in-a-handbag types or it’s just plain wrong. And don’t get us started on the "2-in-1" shampoo nonsense.

If your dog’s got a coat thicker than a stubby holder, or hair that actually grows, tangles, or sheds—you're going to need more than a backyard hose and good intentions.

This is your real-world guide to washing your dog properly between professional grooms, straight from people who actually do this for a living—right here in Glen Alpine.

We groom dogs every bloody day—from pristine poodles to swamp-soaked retrievers who think rolling in a dead magpie is the canine equivalent of Lynx Africa.

The Truth About Shampoo & Conditioner

Let’s get one thing straight—cheap shampoo is rubbish, and that stuff from the supermarket is usually worse.

That so-called "2-in-1" you’ve been using? Throw it in the bin.

Here’s why:

• Shampoo opens the hair cuticle to remove dirt and oil.

• Conditioner closes the cuticle, restoring moisture and balance.

They can’t do both jobs at once—no matter what the label says.

Our no-nonsense tips:

• Always use separate shampoo and conditioner. Every single time.

• Ditch the oatmeal—it feeds yeast and can worsen infections.

• Choose a natural or antimicrobial formula that suits your dog’s skin and coat.

• Use medicated products only when prescribed—and stop once the issue clears.

• Yes, you can wash your dog weekly—as long as you follow with a proper conditioner.

  
  

If you’re doing it right, your dog’s skin will stay healthy and their coat manageable—no dandruff, no itch, no stink and no shave down.

SHORT COATS

(Staffies, Boxers, Dalmatians, short-haired JRTs)

These are the easiest coats to wash, but don’t get lazy. The wrong shampoo or a rushed rinse still leads to dry skin and that weird ‘wet dog’ smell.

What to do:

1. Use lukewarm water—never freezing cold or scalding.

2. Wet thoroughly, down to the skin.

3. Lather up with proper dog shampoo. Don’t forget feet. Leave it for 5–10 mins.

4. Use tear-free shampoo on the face.

5. Rinse like you mean it. If in doubt, rinse again.

6. Apply conditioner, let it sit 5–10 mins, then rinse fully.

7. Use a rubber curry brush to help lift dead hair and skin.

8. Dry properly—damp dogs stink.

9. Finish with a gentle ear clean, if you’ve got the gear.

   
   

DOUBLE COATS

(Border Collies, Retrievers, Huskies, Shepherds, Spitz types)

Double coats = undercoat + topcoat. That means serious shedding and a knack for hoarding dirt in all the wrong places, and no—shaving won’t fix shedding. It just makes the hairs shorter, sharper, more likely to stab you - and hair splinters hurt.

De-shedding shampoos? They speed up the shedding cycle and often dry the coat. We don’t rate them.

What to do:

1. Brush before the bath. if its been longer than 4 weeks since the last wash. Matting needs to be shaved out first—never scissored.

2. Wet the coat properly—get down to the skin.

3. Lather with shampoo and scrub the filth zones—feet, belly, bum, and genital fur. Let sit 5–10 mins. .

4. While it sits, use a long-pin slicker brush to evenly distribute the shampoo down to the skin and pull out loose undercoat and dirt.

5. Tear-free shampoo for the face.

6. Rinse until the water runs clear.

7. Apply conditioner and let sit for 10 minutes. Brush the product through again. Most hair will come out now.

8. Rinse thoroughly. Leftover product = itchy skin.

9. Towel dry and then blow-dry on the highest speed your dog will tolerate calmly—these coats don’t air-dry well.

10. Final brush. Clean ears if needed.

    
    
    
    

LONG, CURLY & OODLE COATS

(Poodles, Cavoodles, Shih Tzus, Maltese, Spoodles—you know the ones)

These coats are a full-time job. If you don’t brush and dry them right, you’re headed straight for matting and a buzz cut.

What to do:

1. Brush with a slicker brush until a comb passes through the coat to the skin without snagging anywhere. If there are small mats, shave them—don’t use scissors or try to forcefully brush them out.

2. Wet the dog all over with lukewarm water.

3. Apply professional shampoo. Let it sit 5–10 mins.

4. Focus on problem zones—butt, genitals, feet, mouth, ears, eyes.

5. Use a slicker brush to spread shampoo and break up muck.

6. For the face: Use tear-free shampoo + a fine comb to work the shampoo through all facial hair and gently remove eye boogers, tear stains and food leftovers. (A flea comb or lice comb from the chemist is best).

7. Rinse fully.

8. Apply conditioner, brush through again, let sit for 10 minutes.

9. Rinse until water runs clear—no shortcuts here.

10. Blow-dry only. Air drying = mats. As you dry, brush until smooth, the coat is 100% dry, and a comb goes through to the skin easily.

11. Clean ears—especially for oodles and floppy-ear types that are prone to infections.

    
    
    
    

Final Word From One Fur All

Washing your dog at home doesn’t have to be a disaster. But it does need to be done properly. The right prep, good products, and follow-through make all the difference—not just for the dog, but for your sanity (and ours).

At One Fur All, we’re not here to scare you into booking every two weeks. We want you to know how to look after your dog’s coat between grooms. Because a clean, comfortable dog is a happy one—and frankly, it makes our job easier too.

We’re your no-BS, dog-loving groomers in Glen Alpine, serving Campbelltown and the Macarthur region. Whether you need a full tidy-up, help fixing a dodgy DIY trim, or just want advice on the best shampoo—just ask. No sales pitch. Just straight answers.

One Fur All – Proudly serving Campbelltown, Glen Alpine & the wider Macarthur region